Pale, bright yellow-straw. Pungent, rather worked aromas of dried flowers, hazelnut, cream and lanolin add complexity to fresh honeysuckle, grapefruit and melon. Racy and minerally on the palate, with a deep core of citrus and melon flavor surrounded by suggestions of bracken and undergrowth. Finishes bone-dry, austere and long. Classy stuff.

We found a lot to like about this wine, from the passion fruit, mango and ginger aromas to the yellow plum, ginger and wheat flour flavors on the palate. A rich wine, it finishes with toast and a zing of grapefruit. ——W.E.(7/1/2004)—— 88