The caramel, honeysuckle, tangerine-scented and flavored, medium to full-bodied 2003 Chardonnay (which spent 12 months in French oak) is an attractive, well-made offering with good concentration. Importer: Ted Schrauth, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA, tel. (831) 689-9080; Bluewater Wines, Warwick, RI, tel. (401) 739-7744; Commonwealth Wines, Mansfield, MA, tel. (508) 261-9300; and Domaine Select, New York, NY, tel. (212) 279-0799

The palate announced loud and clear what this wine's color and aromas also suggest: There's just too much wood here. This is obviously a well-made wine, one with dry citrus and mineral components, and a surge of citrus on the medium-long finish. The toasty overlay, however, is overdone—without it, this wine would climb easily into the next decile.——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 87