From a drought year in Margaret River, the 2001 Chardonnay exhibits tremendous texture in addition to a perfume of white peaches intermixed with hazelnuts, minerals, and orange rind. It smells like a top-class Puligny-Montrachet from the likes of Domaine Leflaive. With good acidity, medium to full body, great fruit purity and clarity, and a long, pure finish, it should drink well for 2-3 years, possibly longer. Importer: Ted Schrauth, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA, tel. (831) 689-9080; Commonwealth Wines, Mansfield, MA, tel. (508) 261-9300; and Domaine Select, New York, NY, tel. (212) 279-0799

Tangy, lively and immensely appealing for its mineral-accented pear, apple and exotic spice flavors, which persist on a well-modulated finish. Drink now through 2005. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / Western Australia / Margaret River Select to Add

Pale bright straw-yellow. Wild pungent, smoky aromas of clove and cinnamon, with bright melon, lemon and grapefruit notes. A harmonious backdrop of creamy lees and fresh bacon and butter malolactic qualities lends complexity. Meaty, even chewy, the palate offers excellent richness and weight, marrying power with style. A flashy core of concentrated citrus fruit spreads into a lingering, fruit-driven, lemony finish, enabling the wine to carry its 14% alcohol gracefully.

Vibrantly caramelly on the nose, with ripe yellow fruit and floral notes underneath. The palate works the same way—fruit seems nice (in this case, it’s white peach) though fights with toast for top billing. Smooth and oaky on the finish.——D.T.(10/1/2003)—— 87