Bursin’s 2007 L’As de B – representing a field blend of six-varieties – allies the brightness of Riesling to oiliness and a warm, smoky cling suggestive of Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. High-toned herbal and citrus oil notes throughout add pungent interest. Enjoy it over the next 12-18 months. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29