The 1989 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is youthful and serious, even in this often rather rich and blowsy vintage. Though somewhat overshadowed by the profound 1988 that accompanied it, only the notes of petrol and poached pear that marry with the classic aromas of citrus oil, white flowers and wet stones indicate that this is a warm year. On the palate, the wine is concentrated, focused and powerful, with great structure and volume but missing the perfect balance of the 1988. That won't stop it cruising along in the cellar for many years to come.