The Umberto Cesari 2012 Sangiovese Tauleto pours from a heavy glass bottle adorned with gold etching. This is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Uva Longanesi, a little-known indigenous grape found in Emilia Romagna. Compared to the more popular Sangiovese, Uva Longanesi delivers higher pH, alcohol and dry extract. Wines made with this grape tend to show a darker color and more concentrated appearance. In terms of aromas and personality, this wine flaunts its dominant Sangiovese identity with wild cherry and pressed violets. There is some cherry confit or preserved blackberry that comes from the hot and dry vintage. But that mysterious Uva Longanesi comes through thanks to the added weight and the deeper center of gravity that you sense here. The wine is fermented in Slavonian oak casks and later aged in barrique and tonneaux for two years. Some 27,000 bottles were made.