The 2005 Altos de Lanzaga was sourced from 70-year-old Rioja vines from a single 9 acre parcel. It was fermented in large oak and raised in new barriques. The aromatics show off toasty oak notes, pencil lead, mineral, espresso, and blackberry. Velvety-textured with well-concealed underlying structure, it has gobs of fruit and flavor, impeccable balance, and will have a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2025, if not longer. The talented Telmo Rodriguez makes a wide range of high quality wines from both ends of the price spectrum.Importer: Michael Quinttus, Vintus Wines; www.vintuswines.com

The 2005 Altos de Lanzaga has already been positively reviewed by my predecessor and I back that up all the way. Sourced from a single, propitious parcel of 70-year-old vines, it has a raspberry, wild strawberry and crushed stone-scented bouquet armed with exquisite delineation and purity, unfurling with each swirl of the glass. The palate has firm grip on the entry, but the acidity lends it immense poise and freshness with notes of dark cherry, balsamic and a touch of marmalade on the tense finish. Rioja wine does not get much better than this?unless it happens to be its 2007 or 2009 counterparts! Drink now-2020. As well as visiting his family estate of Remelluri, I made a brief visit to Telmo Rodriguez’s minuscule, antediluvian winery in the village of Lanciego. It reminded me of setting foot in some of Burgundy’s more artisan domaines: cramped conditions, ancient cobwebbed walls, the acrid tang of mold and decades of winemaking. Telmo mentioned that authorities had tried to persuade him to at least concrete the floor, but he refuses, not wishing to tamper with the authenticity of the winery. I tasted wines from foudres that I will review once bottled. For now, I will concentrate upon those that are already in bottle, because they are spectacular. Telmo sees Altos de Lanzaga as the equivalent of a “premier cru” in Burgundy, sourced from 35-year-old vine grown on red soil that is fermented in cement vats and aged in foudres and casks. His aim is to find the character of the village of his vines within the ambit of Lanciego. Importer: Michael Quintus, Vintus Importers, Pleasantville, NY; www.vintuswines.com

Toasty oak has a touch of char in this rich red, but there's plenty of plum and blackberry fruit beneath, and enough tannin for structure. Modern style. This was the better of two bottles. Drink now through 2011. 50 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

The price on this high-flying Rioja continues to go through the roof, and so does the oak and tannin. And while we still appreciate the wine’s intensity and power, this vintage pushes so much espresso, burnt nut and rubber that it probably won’t impress all comers. In the mouth, look for dark, almost bitter black-fruit flavors followed by a firm, tannic finish. Needs time in the cellar to find more integration. Hold for another year before checking on its status. ——M.S.(12/15/2008)—— 90