The 2009 Altos de Lanzaga has a more introverted bouquet than the 2007: tightly coiled with fine delineation and purity. The palate is beautifully defined with great weight and intensity without compromising upon its elegance and poise. Like the 2007, there is a Burgundy like allure to this weight, with tremendous clarity on the finish. “Stunning” is the word that springs to mind. Drink 2015-2025+ As well as visiting his family estate of Remelluri, I made a brief visit to Telmo Rodriguez’s minuscule, antediluvian winery in the village of Lanciego. It reminded me of setting foot in some of Burgundy’s more artisan domaines: cramped conditions, ancient cobwebbed walls, the acrid tang of mold and decades of winemaking. Telmo mentioned that authorities had tried to persuade him to at least concrete the floor, but he refuses, not wishing to tamper with the authenticity of the winery. I tasted wines from foudres that I will review once bottled. For now, I will concentrate upon those that are already in bottle, because they are spectacular. Telmo sees Altos de Lanzaga as the equivalent of a “premier cru” in Burgundy, sourced from 35-year-old vine grown on red soil that is fermented in cement vats and aged in foudres and casks. His aim is to find the character of the village of his vines within the ambit of Lanciego. Importer: Michael Quintus, Vintus Importers, Pleasantville, NY; www.vintuswines.com