The 2007 Semillon Columbia Valley contains 10% Sauvignon Blanc. It was barrel-fermented in 10% new oak and 50% was aged sur-lie. Light gold-colored, it offers fresh aromas of waxy melon and spring flowers. Creamy-textured, concentrated, and balanced, this lengthy effort will drink well for several years. L’Ecole No. 41 is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent.Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

This Semillon is quite dry, with an unusual mouthfeel that is a bit like chewing on beeswax, honeycomb without the sweetness of honey. It’s a beautifully scented wine with a beguiling mix of floral and spice, suggestions of cinnamon, baking spice and body powder. Following on the palate are firm yet supple flavors of melon, pear and hints of baked apple, gliding into a smooth and satisfying finish, which resonates with hints of buttered toast.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 90