Another blockbuster, and probably the greatest wine in the lineup drinking at point, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is a full-bodied, hedonistic and decadent powerhouse that offers incredible notes of garrigue, cured meats, chocolate, dried spice and layers of ripe red and black fruits. It opens up beautifully with time in the glass, has no hard edges, a silky, seamless texture and a finish that just won't quit. Bravo!

I have had some issues with corked bottles, but the only bottle opened for this tasting was spectacular. Still rather deep bluish/purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of spring flowers, melted licorice, truffles, blueberries, and blackberry liqueur, it is jammy, thick, and unctuously textured, but exhibiting tremendous freshness and vibrancy for a wine this massive and powerful. This is an extraordinary wine without any hard edges. It seems to be close to full maturity, yet capable of staying there for up to two more decades when well-stored. This is a beauty.