The cask-aged 2003 Brunello di Montalcino is dense and sweet, with superb intensity in its dark cherry fruit that is buffered by elegant tannins. Its open, accessible personality makes it a great choice for near-term drinking. This is yet another example where the regular bottling offers greater balance and harmony than the top-of-the line selection. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. La Lecciaia, which is located in the central part of the Brunello zone, is a new property for me. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mount Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155.