Bursting from the glass with candied dark fruits, the 2003 Frederick, a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, is a hugely thick, dense monster. Its immensely powerful core of fruit is crammed with licorice, tar, ink, and blackberry liqueur. This mouth-staining, palate-conquering wine is as ripe as it is muscular, revealing loads of sweet, round tannin in its extensive finish. Projected maturity: 2010-2023. Tel. (800) 764-5504; www.springvalleyvineyard.com

Roughly three quarters Merlot, the rest Cab Franc with a drop of Petit Verdot, this is the mirror image of the Frederick. More fruit-forward, ripe and accessible, the spicy red fruits are set into thick, chocolaty tannins. It holds its balance despite the 15% alcohol, but it may be somewhat precarious. I would drink it early for maximum pleasure. ——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 91