The 2005 Frederick is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Dark ruby-colored, it reveals floral notes, pencil lead, black currant, and blackberry. On the palate the wine reveals its elegant personality and attractive dark fruit flavors. However, it is in need of a bit more mid-palate concentration and is slightly tannic in the finish. Drink it over the next 4-6 years. Spring Valley Vineyards is a Washington rarity, a winery that uses 100% estate-grown fruit to make its wines. The brand is now owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates but the Derby family continues to own the vineyard. The winery began operations in 1999 and currently has 45 acres in production with the potential to grow. The wines are named after prominent deceased family members.

The Frederick—a Bordeaux blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot—is entirely estate-grown, as are all of the Spring Valley wines. Located north of Walla Walla, in rolling wheat country, the vines attain a different set of flavors than anywhere else in the valley. It’s an unusual combination of power (15.5% alcohol) and breed. Supple, sleek, mixing its black fruits with streaks of gun metal, iron and pencil lead, this is a wine that wants to tackle a prime rib, mano a mano.——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 90