Niellon made phenomenal 1985s and 1986s, but his 1989s might ultimately eclipse even those two exceptional vintages. There is no doubting that these wines possess decadent levels of fruit and an almost syrupy viscosity. They are so overwhelmingly rich and opulent, they could easily be compared with some of the greatest white burgundies made in the last decade. Niellon's wines are best consumed within their first 10-15 years of life.
While the 1989 Chevalier-Montrachet is a more timid wine than the Batard-Montrachet, it is still large-scaled and rich, with higher acidity. Yet it does not display the dramatic intensity and flamboyance of either the Batard-Montrachet or the Chassagne-Montrachet-Les Vergers.
One would be tempted to think that Niellon's best wine is his Chevalier-Montrachet, but it never is. (Perhaps I have never tasted a fully mature Chevalier-Montrachet.) For me, his greatest wine is his Batard-Montrachet, made from a tiny .24 acre parcel planted in 1927.
Importer: Chateau and Estates, New York, NY.