There are less than 200 cases of the 2004 Syrah, which is showing better than last year. Meaty, blackberry, and cassis notes interwoven with some smoke and underbrush arise from this inky purple-colored wine. It is peppery, full-bodied, with hints of tapenade and spice. It is very French, but the ripeness is clearly Californian. This wine should drink well for 7-8 years. Tel. (707) 433-0870; fax (707) 433-0871

The model is Hermitage, but the wine is distinctly Californian, with its fat, fleshy ripeness and softness. It’s very rich in chocolate-covered cherry candy, root beer, tangerine zest and smoky, vanilla bean flavors. A drop or two of Viognier was added and may bring a little brightness that lifts the tone.——S.H.(7/1/2007)—— 90