Ramey’s 2009 Syrah is bombastic. A huge powerful wine, the 2009 literally explodes from the glass with masses of dark red fruit, violets and sweet spices. This dramatic, full-throttle wine is sure to thrill readers for its explosive personality. There isn’t a ton of varietal character in the glass, but on the flip side, that could make the 2009 an excellent introduction for readers just beginning to explore Syrah, as the typical notes that can be a bit new to some palates are very much in the background. The 2009 is quite beautiful if taken on its own terms. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2029. Once again, I tasted an amazing range of wines with David Ramey. The Chardonnays capture a beautiful middle ground of ripe, California fruit but treated to a long, Burgundy-inspired elevage that relies on natural yeasts and no filtration, among other choices, to bring out the personality of each of the sites Ramey works with. To me, the Ramey Chardonnays have a Chassagne-like richness that is quite appealing, yet they remain laid back in style by California standards. The Cabernets run the gamut price-wise, but I find a lot to like across the entire range. The Syrahs are in some ways the outliers, because they are made by a winemaker with a very Cabernet-influenced palate. As good as Ramey’s Syrahs are, it is impossible not to notice a house style that emphasizes an overt expression of fruit over what might be termed more varietal character, especially in the regular bottling. As for the reds, the 2011 Cabernets are quite strong for the year. In 2011, Ramey bottled a far greater percentage of his juice into the entry-level Claret than normal, and saved only the best lots for the Cabernets, a decision that has paid off handsomely. The 2010s are just as fabulous as they were last year. At the end of the day, though, that is a relatively small critique for a winemaker who excels in so many ways. In my mind, Ramey is one of the top wineries in the United States. Readers who aren’t familiar with these wines owe it to themselves to check them out. Tel. (707) 433-0870

The 2009 Syrah (from barrel) emerges from the glass with layers of silky dark red fruit, flowers, mint and minerals. This is an especially refined wine, especially when tasted next to the 2008. I especially like the finesse and elegance of it. The bouquet isn’t quite fully developed yet, but the 2009 impresses for its polished personality. The 2009 was co-fermented with 7% Viognier and spent 24 months in French oak barrels, 60% new. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels.Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com