The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain (1,260 cases) exhibits a dark plum/purple color, and a tight but promising nose of black fruits, earth, and sweet vanillin. With high tannin as well as a certain austerity and tightness, this wine needs another 2-3 years of cellaring. The level of tannin vis a vis the level of richness is cause for concern, thus the question mark. Give it 2-3 years and hope the tannin melts away and the fruit becomes more pronounced in this astringent, mountain-styled Cabernet. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018.Tel. (707) 942-0930

Dark, rich and chewy, with a potent core of complex, earthy mineral, currant, cedar, spice and tar notes. Sharply focused, with wonderful balance and finesse, it shows the tannic strength for short-term cellaring. Best from 2000 through 2009. 1,260 cases made. -JL