This 2015 John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon is level and zen—the tannins are rounded (circular, somehow) and omnipresent. It has incredible vivacity and energy. "This is the first year we installed and implemented it [the berry sorting machine] properly," says Sue Hodder. The fruit and tannins and oak and everything comes together in seamless confluence in the mouth. Wildly impressive. At seven years of age today, this is not yet looking into its first drinking window. If you can abstain a few more years, it would be to your benefit.

Deep ruby. Deep-pitched black and blue fruit, floral oil, pipe tobacco and licorice aromas are complemented by smoky oak, vanilla and espresso nuances. Weighty and broad in the mouth, offering intense cassis, cherry-vanilla, fruitcake and mocha flavors sharpened by a peppery flourish. Clings with impressive authority on the finish, which features sneaky tannins and a strong echo of sweet dark fruit.