The 1996 Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva is still purple. It delivers an expressive nose of balsamic and Asian spices leading to a savory, balanced lengthy wine revealing no age. It appears to have many years of life remaining (particularly when taken in the context of the ancient vintages that followed). Marques de Riscal is one of Rioja’s legendary estates. Here tradition and quality go hand in hand despite the Bodega’s enormous production and a few minor tweaks to update the style. It was my privilege in May 2010 to participate in a vertical tasting of Marques de Riscal Gran Reservas dating back to 1870 at the Bodega. The corks from the ancient vintages were removed with Port tongs to prevent any contamination of the wine. Shaw-Smith Importers, FL

Although this bottle didn’t show quite as well as the one rated last year (92 points, 10/03), it’s still a fine wine. Tobacco, earth, vanilla and coffee aromas, backed by black cherry and cassis. It’s bigger than the 2000 Reserva, but just as supple and ready to drink.——W.E.(11/1/2004)—— 90