The estate’s 2005 Barolo Tortoniano offers lovely depth in an essentially mid-weight style. Crushed raspberries, flowers, licorice and spices are melded together in a finely-knit frame of notable elegance. This beautifully balanced, accessible Barolo should continue to drink nicely for another decade or so. A long, refreshing finish makes it difficult to resist a second taste. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. This is an especially successful set of new releases from Michele Chiarlo. The Barolos and Barbarescos are particularly of note, as they have never been more refined. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

Tortoniano shows very exciting results thanks to the wine’s evident softness and richness. Aromas recall sweet Christmas spice, black cherry, licorice and rose petal but the wine really picks up speed in the mouth where you will experience a blast of chocolate and espresso. Drink 2015–2020.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 90