The 2006 Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva Vigna La Quercia is Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon fermented in cement and aged in neutral French oak. It shows lovely drive and intensity, with layers of dark fruit wrapped around a clean mineral core of notable focus. The wine’s finesse and sense of balance are both first-rate. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. This is a lovely set of new releases from Castelvecchio. Consulting oenologist Luca D’Attoma has worked here since 2003. A 100% Sangiovese is also on the horizon, and should be a fascinating wine given the progress the estate has made in recent years. Importers: Aventine Hill Wines Llc., Westport, CT; Atlantic Importing, Framingham, MA; tel. (508) 665-4272; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799