Another striking wine, the 2009 Aglianico del Vulture La Firma blossoms from the glass with rich dark cherries, menthol, sage and scorched earth. The wilder notes typical of Aglianico have largely been tamed in a wine that stands out for its balance of opulence and freshness. Dark raspberries, sage and rosemary add attractive dimensions of complexity on the finish. I especially like the sense of balance here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Cantina del Notaio has made a name for itself with rich, textured wines that bear the signature of longtime winemaker Luigi Moio, one of the most celebrated and influential oenologists in southern Italy. Today’s wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, a positive development given that this fruit really needs little to shine. All of the wines are named after stages in the Italian legal process. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300