The super-concentrated, dense ruby/purple-colored 1998 Aglianico del Vulture La Firma is one of the finest Aglianicos I have ever tasted. It admirably displays the potential from this area in southern Italy. Impressively dense and concentrated, with competing aromas of blackberries, cherries, roasted herbs, meats, licorice, and high quality toasty French oak, this thick, juicy, well-balanced, mouth-coating wine should age nicely for a decade. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411