The 2003 Corullon “Las Lamas” (about 165 case produced), on the other hand, is the masculine side of the estate. It is a deeper, more saturated shade of purple and is presently more restrained and brooding aromatically. There are scents of earth, mineral, smoke and blue fruits. More tightly wound, but with an abundance of material and superb grip, this benchmark example of Bierzo should evolve magnificently with another 4-6 years of bottle age and drink well for 15+ years. This estate was started in 1998 by Alvaro Palacios. It has steep hillside vineyards and 60- to 100-year-old vines planted in 100% Mencia, a varietal indigenous to Bierzo, a cool-climate D.O. Importer; Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484