The 2001 Condrieu is mineral and flower-dominated. Hints of ripe peaches and apricots along with medium body and an excellent texture suggest it should be consumed over the next 1-3 years.These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff.Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Round and lush, with plenty of gardenia, stone fruit, mineral and citrus peel. The mouth is emboldened with tangerine and lemon, and also just a hint of softening butter. And the finish is equally soft, dry and easy. This Northern Rhone white comes out smooth and fades away quickly and quietly, much as it should. With personality and defined flavors, this is a pretty solid Viognier. And it’s hardly over the top. ——M.S.(9/1/2003)—— 88