The 2020 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is a standout this year. Revealing aromas of cassis, dark cherries, incense, rose petals, dark chocolate and spices, it's full-bodied, concentrated and structured, with striking depth and dimension. Vibrant and penetrating, it will require patience, but it's the finest Clos Vougeot I've ever tasted from Jadot.

Muscular and powerful, the 2019 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) opens in the glass with aromas of cherries, sweet berry fruit, raw cocoa, spices, rose petals and licorice. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with rich structuring tannins and lively acids, this is built for the long haul.

Revisited in bottle, the 2018 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of red cherries, raspberries, sweet soil tones and warm spices. Full-bodied, muscular and tightly wound, with lively acids and prodigious reserves of fine, chalky tannins, this is a serious, structured Clos Vougeot unapologetically built for the long haul. For the patient, everything suggests there's considerable upside, but this is not a wine to "pop and pour" any time in the next decade.

Tasted from bottle, the 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) opens in the glass with an attractive bouquet of berry fruit, plums, orange rind and coniferous forest floor, framed by a deft application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and enveloping, its succulent core of fruit framed by melting tannins. From barrel, I faulted this wine for being excessively open-knit, but while it certainly is unusually supple and giving by the standards of this cuvée, there's more depth than I perceived last year: what's more, and critically, this is simply immensely pleasurable to drink.