Even better is the broader, deeper, richer, more complex and minerally 2009 Cotes du Rhone Les Quartz. This has the deepest color of the three wines and exhibits surprising depth, richness and expansiveness on the palate. It tastes like a Chateauneuf du Pape rather than a Cotes du Rhone. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. This modestly sized estate of just under 25 acres in the northeastern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape has been run by Sylvie Vacheron since her husband’s tragic death in 2002. Importers: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysos Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622; and Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799