Compared to the 1999, the 1998 Ermitage le Meal seamed slightly one-dimensional on the nose and left me craving a touch more complexity. However, it made up for it on the palate and was more expansive and opulent, with full-bodied richness, terrific concentration and a surprising amount of tannic grip that came through on the blockbuster finish. Showing classic Hermitage notes of beef blood, currants, smoked earth and licorice, drink this rich, fabulously textured 1998 over the coming 2-3 decades.

The 1998 Ermitage Le Meal rouge represents the essence of Hermitage - a wine of elegance, power, symmetry, and extraordinary purity. Aromas and flavors of black and red fruits as well as liquid granite emerge in this superb, multi-layered wine of fabulous intensity and length. The finish lasts for nearly a minute. The tannin is high, and a decade of cellaring is warranted. This 1998 will last for half a century. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Beautiful. Supple tannins, full-bodied and balanced, with rich and ripe fruit. If seduction is the standard, this is hedonistic, with subtle smoke and toast character along with red berry and blackberry concentration. Drink now through 2010.??–PM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Ermitage Select to Add