A completely different beast from the Pavillon, the 1996 Ermitage Le Meal is a sexy, layered unctuously textured beauty that offers the classic sweetness and silkiness that’s the hallmark of this site. Black raspberries, blackberries, dried flowers, herbes des Provence and sweet spice all emerge from this full-bodied, layered and beautifully proportioned Hermitage. Like all of the 1996s from Michel, it shows a lively, fresh and pure character, and is a joy to drink. It also opens up nicely with time in the glass and has another decade or two of longevity.

The 1996 Hermitage Le Meal (Chapoutier calls it the Lafite-Rothschild of Hermitage) is a mineral-dominated, high acid, medium to full-bodied, high-strung, extremely intellectual wine. It exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color, as well as mineral-dominated aromatics with notes of cassis, kirsch, and underbrush. Made from 80-year old vines, it requires 10-15 years of cellaring. Although not the most charming, opulent, or viscous style of Hermitage, it does possess the strongest terroir character of any of Chapoutier's wines. I might call it the Ausone of Hermitage! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2040. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Near-perfect balance brings appeal to this sumptuous, silky red. Think of crushed black olives mixed with spicy virgin olive oil, add cassis, mocha, spice and toasted bread. Think of a texture so suave and opulent as to bring a smile on your face and the glass to your lips again and again. Get the picture? Drink now through 2010. 500 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Ermitage Select to Add