The 2009 Chardonnay Estate is incomparably elegant. Lemon, lime, crushed rocks, spices and mint are some of the many nuances that take shape as the 2009 opens up in the glass. The 2009 is unusually open and approachable for a young Mount Eden Chardonnay, but there is plenty of stuffing for it to age well for many years. The 2009 will be even better in another few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Mount Eden is one of the United States’ great heritage estates. The Chardonnays and Pinots have a track record for aging spectacularly well. As outstanding as the Chardonnays and Pinots can be, I was also pretty surprised by the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignons. Winemaker and proprietor Jeffrey Patterson favors indigenous fermentations for all his wines, which are also bottled with no fining or filtration. The top Chardonnay bottling, the Estate, spends a year in barrel and six months in steel, as do so many of the top whites in Burgundy these days. The Pinots are made with anywhere from 20-50% stem inclusion, which can make the wines hard to understand when young. If I am looking for an aged bottle of California Chardonnay or Pinot, Mount Eden is always at or near the top of my list. In this section, I have listed all of the wines from Domaine Eden, Mount Eden’s second label first, followed by the wines of Mount Eden. Tel (888) 865-9463; info@mounteden.com

There’s a hard, minerally edge to this Chardonnay, like the tang of cold metal, an impression that’s heightened by its citrusy acids. The flavor veers toward Meyer lemon, while toasted oak brings needed vanilla and honey richness. It’s controlled and tight, compared to more opulent bottlings, but it’s also elegant and complex. Mount Eden’s Chardonnays have a history of aging, and this fine one will go for 10 years or so, gradually losing fruit. — (12/1/2012) —93