Readers will find much to admire in these two new releases from Argiano, located in the southern part of the Montalcino zone. The 2004 Suolo (100% Sangiovese) is a decidedly more understated wine although I find it equally outstanding. A medium red, it exhibits beautifully delineated, perfumed red fruits, flowers, spices, licorice, smoke and earthiness in a gorgeously pure, vibrant expression of Sangiovese that bursts onto the palate with a weightless energy that is hard to fully describe. Its inner tension is dramatically different than the more generous style of Solengo, suggesting that a minimum of a few years of bottle age will be beneficial in allowing the wine to achieve a greater sense of harmony. This is a terrific effort from Argiano. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Strawberry aroma that is halfway to Burgundy. This carries through to the palate, which remains a bit dusty.

Suolo is 100% Sangiovese and this is one of the best vintages ever for this delicate, feminine wine. The purity and intensity of its aromas are outstanding and the wine’s complexity makes it a pleasure to contemplate over a long meal. There’s a distinctive Brunello-like touch to its soul.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 94