Seven Hills’ Reserve comes from the oldest vines in the vineyard, which were planted in the early 1980s and are among the oldest bearing Merlot vines in the region. Its soft tannins and ripe black cherry fruit make it accessible even at this young age. It was aged in 100% new French oak, though not so much as to dominate the elegant fruit—just enough to put a nice toasty frame around the picture. ——P.G.(6/1/2001)—— 91