The 1990 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico drives home an important point about the longevity of Amarone. More than any other producer, Masi has been striving to demonstrate that wines made with the appassimento process can live long cellar lives. The Boscaini family has set aside a large number of older vintages in order to offer those special bottles to curious consumers. This example is stunning. This beautiful Amarone opens to a dark garnet appearance and integrated tones of dried cherry, spice and Spanish cedar. The tannins are super smooth at this point and appear to be at the height of their silkiness. This is a very special wine to drink now or in the next five years.

This is a bit lighter in color than it’s younger sibling, the 2000, but still shows no obvious bricking in color. This is nicely supple and softened with age, but still shows plenty of cherry fruit and leather subtleties. Drink or hold.——J.C.(12/31/2006)—— 90