From Masi's library cellars, the 1997 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera is a super-successful experiment in longevity. The Boscaini family has been making wine at Masi since 1964 and this winery has one of the largest (and best-kept) collections of old vintages. Masi is in a special position to offer older vintages and they do so now thanks to the Masi Boscaini Collezione Grandi Annate program that this wine is part of. Tertiary aromas are in full view here and you get lingering touches of cured meat, Indian spice, dried fruit and rum cake. The fruit is dark and dried, but it still plays an important role in the wine's overall definition. Especially attractive are the drying mineral notes of pencil shaving and brimstone. I went back to this wine a day later, and was equally impressed with the results. There's enough vigor and energy left to hold this bottle five years or more.

Immediately impressive, with an ultraripe nose of blackcurrants, nuts and blueberries. The flavors follow suit, giving the palate a dense black plum and cocoa coating. Fat and plush, with very broad, well-structured tannins, this is tempting now, and should be even better in three to five years. Cellar Selection.——W.E.(9/1/2001)—— 91