The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera is a richly layered Amarone that shows youthful energy and budding complexity despite the fact it is only at the beginning of its evolutionary course. Immediate layers of dried fruit and pressed blackberry peel back to reveal etched mineral tones, loads of tobacco, exotic spice and even a hint of bitter chocolate. Like many of the best Amarones on the market, this wine is distinguished by its exceptional mouthfeel: Softness, thickness, sweetness and dark concentration are among its best assets. Drink 2015-2024.
Winemaking excellence should be consistent, but it must never be static. This is a lesson I learned at a recent tasting spanning five decades of Masi’s wines including the 1967, 1973, 1979, 1983, 1988, 1990, 1995, 1997, 2003 and 2007 Amarones Classico, Riserva, Vaio, Campolongo and Mazzano. Sandro Boscaini and his team of technicians have been tinkering with their signature style for many decades. Like a New York cab swerving between traffic lanes, they’ve veered into more oak, less oak, more extraction and less extraction. Despite the manic maneuvering, they never venture far from the centerline.
Importer: Kobrand Corporation, www.kobrandwineandspirits.com
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