The debut vintage of the 100% Cabernet Sauvignon cuvee, the 1998 Gabbro, is a terrific example of what can be produced in this area adjacent to the Mediterranean. Keep in mind that the famous Sassicaia is close by, as are the hillside vineyards of the cult wine, Tua Rita. The saturated black/purple-colored 1998 Gabbro boasts sumptuous aromatics of cherry liqueur, cassis, toasty new oak, minerals, spice box, and tobacco. There is extravagant intensity, an opulent texture, and a large-scaled, rich, concentrated finish. It should be cellared for 2-3 years, and drunk over the following 12-15. Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484 and a Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620