The 2009 Gabbro (Cabernet Sauvignon) is impeccable and refined from start to finish. This isn’t a vintage built on structure, as has been the case in the recent past, but rather a wine that impresses for its silky tannins, expressive aromatics, and overall finesse. The 2009 is quite feminine and gracious in style, but there is plenty of underlying tannin and fruit. In exchange, the 2009 should drink well earlier than some of the other, more important vintages that precede it. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Suvereto is one of the warmer microclimates in the Tuscan Maremma. Proprietor Fabio Chiarelotto succeeded in capturing the best elements of these sites while also shaping his wines with a level of finesse that is remarkable. The 2009s are fabulous, especially within the context of the year. Chiarelotto decided against bottling the Nardo, because many of the Sangiovese and Montepulciano vineyards struggled with the intense heat. The fruit he was able to salvage went into the Eneo, which helps explain why that wine is such a standout. The 2010s were stunning when I tasted them from barrel last summer. Readers can get an early peek at the vintage with the 2010 A Quo, a wine that delivers absurdly high quality for the money. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484