Pewsey Vale's Contours Riesling is the flagship; a consistently outstanding wine released five years after the vintage to demonstrate Riesling's ability to improve with age. It is a selection of the best parcels from a vineyard planted in 1961. Medium straw-colored, the nose reveals petrol notes, citrus, lemon-lime and tertiary aromas from extended aging in bottle. On the palate it has excellent depth of fruit, vibrant acidity, excellent concentration, and a lengthy finish. It should evolve for several more years and drink well through 2018. Pewsey Vale was the first Australian wine to be sealed with a Stelvin screw cap. Aside from that, the winery specializes in Riesling from the Eden Valley. Two excellent lower level Rieslings are noted among the Value wines at the end of this report. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; www.pewseyvale.com

It’s a rare treat when a winery bottle-ages a wine for you, but that’s exactly what’s happened here. The result is a top-notch dry Aussie Riesling that’s just entering its plateau of maturity, where it should stay for another 5–10 years. Slightly honeyed notes soften the intense scents of crushed stones, then pick up hints of tangerine on the palate. Replacing the briskness of youth is a soft, lingering finish.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 91