Pewsey Vale’s 2005 The Contours Riesling presents a wonderfully expressive nose of lime leaf, lemon curd, fresh hay, lanolin and dill seed. Dry and light-bodied, it has a great backbone of zingy acid that enlivens long into the citrusy finish. Approachable now, it should cellar to 2020. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

(South Australia) Toasty, lifted lime cordial and lemon aroma. Mature but fresh, toasty, citrus marmalade flavours. Peristent, complex, layered and attractive. Super. Alc: 13%.

Thank the folks at Pewsey Vale for aging this stellar wine five years before its release. The result is what Australian Rieslings aspire to become, a medium-bodied wine of uncommon elegance. Orange marmalade, honey and toast characters mingle easily yet finish crisp, long and completely dry. Drink now or hold through 2015, possibly longer.——J.C.(4/1/2012)—— 93