This wine has filled out very nicely. Nearly 3,000 cases were produced of this flowery, tar, camphor, incense, blackberry, black currant, espresso and chocolate-scented beauty. A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, a whopping 22% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot and Petit Verdot, this full-bodied, opulent 2003 is just entering its plateau of full maturity. It is better at age ten than it was early in life from cask and post-bottling. Tel. (707) 942-3200

The 2003 Les Pavots (61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot) exhibits notes of melted licorice, tapenade, damp earth, black currants, and cedar. Slightly more herbaceous than the 2004, with notions of barbecued meat as well as blue and black fruits, this full-bodied, dense 2003 may not have quite the potential of the 2002 or 2001, but it is a brilliant effort to consume between 2008-2020. (Release date 4/06)Tel. (707) 942-3200; Fax (707) 942-0209

Tannic and closed to the point of inaccessibility, this Cab-based blend, which contains Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, comes from low-yielding vines grown 1,700 feet above Knights Valley. It all comes down to a question of ageability. The answer is it will age quite nicely. The balance is superb, and the core of fruit is there. Do not open this wine until 2010; it should continue to develop for another 10 years at least.——S.H.(9/1/2006)—— 93