The 1999 Firebreak is showing far better out of bottle than it did from barrel. This big red's (14.9% alcohol)dark ruby/garnet color is followed by sweet notes of saddle leather, cherry jam, and candied strawberries. This soft, round, plush, and hedonistic offering will drink well for 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

While others struggle to figure out Sangiovese, Shafer takes the lead to produce one of the most distinctive, noteworthy efforts in California. Tobacco, earth and cherry flavors, and a light, airy texture, mark the Sangiovese, while 5% Cabernet Sauvignon adds currants and tannic structure. The result is complex, stylish and compelling. This surely is one of the best super Tuscans in the state, and perhaps anywhere. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 93