The 2009 Barolo opens with inky, dark concentration that is de rigueur for Cascina Adelaide, located at the foot of the town of Barolo. Barbecue smoke, cured meat, new leather, dark plum and Indian spice make for bold up-front intensity. The soft, supple texture imparted on the finish gives this wine more accessible appeal. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. It must be the name “Adelaide” that leads my thoughts to exotic and far-away Australia, but every time I encounter the wines from this estate, the words “New World” immediately come to mind. It’s a little wine-tinted Rorschach test that never fails. Needless to say, the heavy use of French oak does a lot to reinforce that stubborn mental tick. Importer: Tesori Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (310) 455-9463

Leans toward a modern style, with spicy oak framing the black cherry, licorice and leather flavors. Graceful and integrated, with a supple texture and a long, lightly astringent finish. Best from 2015 through 2027. 1,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add