Readers should not forget the inexpensive 2005 Cotes du Rhone Le Poste, a white wine made from 100% Clairette, which is somewhat unusual. Floral and elegant with hints of tropical fruits and a note of exotic spring flowers, this is dry, fresh, and lively. Drink it over the next year. Readers should keep in mind that the young, talented proprietor Louis Barruol produces negociant wines under the label Saint-Cosme. and all the estate wines appear under the label Chateau Saint-Cosme. In theory, the only estate wines are the three cuvees of Gigondas. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218