The 1999 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone displays abundant quantities of spicy vanilla in the bouquet, along with notes of lead pencil shavings, sweet cherry jam, leather, herbs, and tobacco. This dark ruby/purple-colored, medium-bodied, moderately tannic 1999 will drink well for 6-8 years. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000

Here’s a live wire, with lemony, fine-grained oak aromas and a starchy, hard-tannin feel. Flavorwise, it’s about fleshy berry fruit and (what else?) piercing oak. Fortunately, there’s enough fruit and body to support it. Quite compact, ripe and sturdy. ——M.S.(12/15/2003)—— 87