The single-vineyard 2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone reveals beguiling aromatics. With air, layers of vibrant dark fruit, tar, smoke, graphite and licorice develop in the glass as this beautifully-balanced wine struts its stuff. Ideally a few years of bottle age are warranted, but this wine is so appealing at the moment that readers might have a hard time waiting. I am confident that in a few years this wine will be even better. The wine’s finesse, tannins and texture are clearly those of a first-class wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

This is a bold, meaty wine with thick aromas of smoke, cured meat, mesquite wood, ripe blueberry and sweet cherry. It makes a grand impression on both the nose and the tongue because of its exceptional density, its supple texture and its impressive length.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 91