I know it sounds unappealing, but occasionally (more frequently in Nebbiolo than Sangiovese) an unmistakable scent of fresh sardines emerges along with aromas of cherries, earth, leather, underbrush, etc. I found that characteristic in this lean but impressively constituted, dark plum-colored 1997 Chianti Rufina Riserva del Don. It possesses complex aromatics, excellent texture, and a medium-bodied, ruggedly constructed finish. I am not sure it will ever resolve its rusticity, but it will provide a big mouthful of Chianti over the next 7-10 years. Importer: Seth Allen, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700