Dal Forno's 1991 Valpolicella is about as good as it gets (including the exquisite Valpolicellas produced by Quintarelli). A dark ruby/purple color is followed by gobs of sweet, chewy, black-cherry, currant, and spicy fruit with that unmistakable smoky, almond-like extract in the aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, with sexy, voluptuously-textured, luscious flavors, this gloriously fruity, exuberant, in-your-face style of Valpolicella is a marvel to drink. If it possessed a few additional nuances, this wine would be outstanding. Long and rich, it will drink well for 8-10 years. Readers who follow the Italian wine scene must argue incessantly over who makes the greatest wines of Veneto - Quintarelli or Dal Forno Romano? Both are at the top of their game, producing spectacular wines that are reference points for an area of northeast Italy that is beginning to show signs of awakening from a long period of moribund mediocrity. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200