The 1,000-acre vineyards of Esporao are the largest in Portugal. Under the tutelage of Australian winemaker David Baverstock, this aristocrat of Portuguese grapes wins again in the Esporao’s range of single-varietal wines. It is rich, it is vibrant, it has complexity. It is certainly ripe, but also elegant, along with lingering plum flavors. —R.V.——R.V.(12/31/2002)—— 90