When Dry Creek gets it right, few wineries anywhere can beat their Zins. Somers Ranch is in the eastern hills, where it gets the full benefit of the afternoon sun. The wine is impressive in ripe blackberries, currants, licorice and cocoa, but maintains a beautiful structure, with soft, fine tannins and just-in-time acidity.——S.H.(8/1/2008)—— 92