The 2006 Chimbanta & Battoro is Monica made from fruit that was left to dry on the vine. The fruit is wonderfully intense and vibrant. Spiced, herbal notes that recall Barolo Chinato develop in the glass, but this remains a full-throttle, intense red dessert wine that is probably best enjoyed on its own or alongside fully-flavored cheeses. Anticipated maturity: 201-2014. Alessandro Dettori makes some of the most unique and compelling wines in Sardinia. Minuscule yields from old vineyards, biodynamic farming and a non-interventionalist approach in the cellar form the backbone of Dettori’s philosophy. The wines are made with natural yeasts and are neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. At their best, these are profound wines, but they are also totally natural. At times the alcohol levels are high and the wines, which contain very low sulfites, can be fragile. Still, readers seeking to discover the heights of Sardinian oenology owe it to themselves to experience the wines of Alessandro Dettori. This is an excellent set of new releases, although 2006 looks to be an uneven vintage. Dettori will not release the flagship Dettori Rosso, and the overall level of the top bottlings seems a notch or two lower than has been the case in the recent past.Importers: Free Run Llc, Seattle, WA; Vitis Import, Inglewood, CA; tel. (310) 674-1112

The 2006 Chimbanta (Monica) is a dense, full-bodied offering loaded with spiced dark fruit, licorice, leather, tar and smoke. There is a wild, unrestrained quality I find appealing here, but the wine is already quite forward and is ideally enjoyed sooner rather than later. At times the volatile acidity walks on the fine line of being intrusive. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Alessandro Dettori makes some of the most unique and compelling wines in Sardinia. Minuscule yields from old vineyards, biodynamic farming and a non-interventionalist approach in the cellar form the backbone of Dettori’s philosophy. The wines are made with natural yeasts and are neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. At their best, these are profound wines, but they are also totally natural. At times the alcohol levels are high and the wines, which contain very low sulfites, can be fragile. Still, readers seeking to discover the heights of Sardinian oenology owe it to themselves to experience the wines of Alessandro Dettori. This is an excellent set of new releases, although 2006 looks to be an uneven vintage. Dettori will not release the flagship Dettori Rosso, and the overall level of the top bottlings seems a notch or two lower than has been the case in the recent past.Importers: Free Run Llc, Seattle, WA; Vitis Import, Inglewood, CA; tel. (310) 674-1112